FAQs
Most Popular Questions
What is the best way to water my newly planted shrubs?
When it comes to watering trees, shrubs, and flowers there is not a simple formula. Temperature, rainfall, soil type, amount of sun/shade, and mulch will all play a role in the watering schedule of plants. A key factor, however, is the soil texture. Clay soils can hold up to three times more water than sandy soils.
Check soil by moving stone or mulch aside and feeling the soil for moisture is the quickest and easiest way to know if you need to water again. You want moist soil, not wet. If there is little or no moisture in the soil you should water more frequently. When watering is needed, water to soak the soil deeply, not just to get it wet. Deep watering leads to a desirable long root system and less watering. One way is to set a hose on trickle and let it sit at the base of the plant for 15 to 20 minutes for trees. With landscape plants it’s best to individually water the plant and the surrounding soil. When I water plants the hose is moving plant to plant every 10-15 seconds to allow the water to soak in for about a minute, then watering the same plant three times. Start at one end and work your way around. On hot summer days, you might have to water in the morning and evening. In the spring or fall it might be once a day or every other day. It typically takes 3 weeks for plants to start rooting in the soil and be able to go without watering for a week. These are general guidelines as each project is unique.
I just had a new lawn installed. Now what?
After years of helping homeowners install their lawns, we have developed the following list of recommendations to assist you in making your lawn a beautiful, green reality. The condition and appearance of your lawn are now entirely up to you, and with the following tips, you’ll be well on your way to a beautifully landscaped home.
- Watering should start immediately after seeding and mulch application. Water thoroughly, especially in corners and off-shaped areas. Moistened straw does not readily blow about, and the seed must be moist to germinate. Be sure the straw remains uniformly spread. If the straw is piled too thickly, the seed will be smothered and not germinate. If it blows off in areas, the seed will take longer to germinate.
- Begin watering with the sprinkler farthest away from the house. Each time you reposition, move the sprinkler closer to the house. This will prevent you from stepping on muddy ground. If you are planning to purchase a sprinkler, look for a good-quality tripod impulse sprinkler; don’t buy the gear-driven style.
- You will have to mow in about 3 weeks. Do not water the lawn a day or two in advance so you don’t leave ruts. In case of a steady rain, hold off mowing until the lawn is firm enough. Sinking in the new lawn is easily fixed by stepping on the rut when it’s firmed up a little. It’s normal for your lawn to not come in uniform, areas of your lawn will blend over time. You do not need to remove the straw, it will naturally decompose. Any sparse areas can be re-seeded and covered with straw to protect the area until the grass has settled in. We can give you grass seed and straw at no charge.
- Use a light, push mower. Under no conditions should you use a riding mower on the first three cuttings, it will kill a lot of the same seedlings. You will leave ruts in your new sod, making future mowings a nightmare. Be sure the mower blades are sharp and the height adjustment is set to cut at 2 1/2″.
- After two to three weeks, or when the lawn starts to fill in nicely (this depends on the growing season), fertilize your lawn with a starter fertilizer. This encourages a good deep root system. You will notice a yellowish color in your grass if it does not have enough fertilizer. A week after fertilizing you should notice a color change. If it’s still yellowish, fertilize again every week until the grass is a deep green. Some areas will need more than others, so fertilize accordingly. It’s best if you the homeowner can stay on top of the fertilizer with a nice broadcast spreader. The next best is to have Valley Lawn Care do it for you.
- Weeds are best controlled by mowing frequently to keep them small so they don’t smother the new seedlings. Wait until Spring or fall to spray the weeds, it should take one application to wipe out most of the weeds. It’s best to hire this part out to Valley Lawn Care.
- Our grass seed is Deluxe 50 from Reinders. It uses a blend of Rye Grass, Blue Grass, and Fescue. They germinate at different times, the Ryegrass is up first in the first week, the Fescue is about 2 weeks and the Blue grass takes 3 weeks. When you are mowing your lawn for the first time, you will only have 2/3 of the seed germinating. Every sprout grows into a larger patch of grass about 4 inches across. A normal lawn takes about one year to look decent. It takes about 3 years to fully establish.
Does planting depth matter?
Yes, absolutely. If installed below grade (or surface level) most plants will suffocate or drown resulting in failing health and eventual death. In general, plants should be installed with approximately 20 % of the root ball above grade. Do not cover the exposed root ball with soil. Instead, use a thin layer of mulch (one to two inches thick maximum) to help retain moisture and inhibit weed growth.
Should I be concerned about lichen growing on the trunks of my trees?
Lichens are not at all harmful to trees. In fact, they are fascinating organisms. They can be used to dye wool and to monitor pollution levels…some are even edible (careful, though…a few are poisonous!).
What is meant by “root girdling” and how can it be prevented or remedied?
In simplest terms, root girdling is encircled roots at or below the surface of the ground often due to the constraints of the container in which it has been living that tend to strangle the plant. At the time a plant is installed into a landscape, it is very important to prune the roots to remedy and prevent girdled roots. If steps are not taken at the time of installation, the tree will likely suffer a slow decline and premature death. It will also be susceptible to falling when wind or storms introduce stress to its weak root system. Root girdling results in a weak support system for the tree. Trees with root girdlings often lack trunk flare at the base of the tree where it enters the ground.
Is there a product I can use that will kill the weeds, but not the plants I want to keep?
Unfortunately, the only way to get rid of weeds in your beds is to carefully spray the weed and not the plant with an herbicide like Roundup. Roundup is Glysophate, save your money and buy the generic stuff, it’s the same. The Roundup only works if you spray the leaf of any plant. As long as you’re careful not to spray any good plant leaves with round you’re all set. Also, don’t walk in the areas you spray, always back up and keep your shoes out of it. The only other way is to pull them out of the ground with the roots manually. You can prevent the weeds from germinating altogether with a granular product like Preen. Again, buy the generic product at Stein’s.
What repellents work best to keep woodchucks and other destructive animals out of my garden?
There’s no easy answer to that one. There are a number of products on the market, and people report various results. Predator urine, especially fox or coyote, has become very popular in recent years. It creates the illusion that predators are nearby, and that’s a powerful deterrent. It’s also all-natural. There are chemical and physical barriers, plus traps, woodchuck bombs, and scarecrows. Varmints are a perennial problem and there’s no single solution.
Are there any guarantees for Hardscape or plants?
Yes. We warranty any hardscape project for three years. We also guarantee the plants for a full year after they were planted. We pride ourselves on quality work and standing by what we do. That is why we have so much repeat business.
When is the best time to split and separate my perennials?
The best time to split perennials is in the spring or fall on a cool, cloudy day. Hostas are the most commonly split plant. They are very hearty plants that can take a lot of stress. Hydrangea on the other hand are very sensitive to being split and cannot stay out of the ground for more than ten minutes in any kind of heat. For more information you can visit our links page.
Where do you buy your plants and shrubs? Is there a guarantee?
We buy our plant material from Bailey’s Nurseries in Minnesota. We carry Endless Summer, First Editions, Proven Winners and Trees Are Cool. Earthscape stands by our work and does not charge for taking out the dead or bad looking plant and replacing it with a “healthy” one. No matter what type of plant or tree it is, or if the plant isn’t completely dead and is a flaw in your landscaping, it will be covered under our warranty.
Where can I get a design created?
We offer design services and can provide you with a design for your project. You may also choose to have an outside designer complete a design/plan. We will work from any design/plan.
Do I need a design for my project?
Not all projects need a design. The scope of the project to be completed will determine the need for a design. Enlarging a planting bed or adding simple elements to the landscape can be done with a verbal description or rough sketch. As the complexity of the project increases, such as with the re-landscaping of a backyard after a pool is installed, a design/plan may be a valuable tool in helping you visualize the project. A design ensures that you are able to see how the project will look in proportion to your property, and will aid in coordinating different elements of a project such as a pool, fence and the landscaping.
Is there a charge for estimates?
No, we do not charge for estimates. We do not charge for plans for job we are going to do all of the work at. We don’t create plans for a fee or for just selling the plant material.
